diario TODAY...

August 10th 2015. Valgiano wines marked 2014 are characterised by great Vivacity

Some of you might not know, but last summer it

rained

rained

rained.

In the vineyard, very little light made it to the leaf canopy.

Conveying grapes which had reached the correct maturity has been a difficult task, but, we –almost- made it!

In Valgiano, the wines made in 2014 are different compared to a “classic” vintage, less sugar, therefore less alcohol.

However, wines are balanced though they are characterised by a great vivacity ( or impertinenceas they said once upon a time).
The latter,  is conferred from the natural acidity of the wine, as a result of the subtle fermentative transformations.
The acidity ( or Vivacity) is the sublimation vector of the natural minerality of “terroir” wines.  It entertains a very subtle relation ship with the mineral salts ( as they contain plenty of them) , with huge variability according to their birth place.

This bio chemical is called “ salification phenomenon”. Thanks to it, the mineral salts melt harmoniously in the mouth together with the natural acids present in the wines. Those acids will also (obviously !)

act as aspiration effect of salinity. Hence it is the Vivacity that underlines the minerality of the wine, its salinity.

The alcoholic fermentation,  followed by the malolactic one undergoes subtle transformations which  guarantee a noble vivacity to the wine who will cisel its  consistency enhancing its texture.

Vivacity makes the wine live in the mouth, it vibrates. At the same time, it enhances the aromatic freshness present in a climate or place wine, together with its style and minerality.

2014 Valgiano reds have a strong acidity, the alcohol content does not go any higher than 11,2% . They are not on the market yet, but are easily dinkable during this hot summer . Same thing for the Palistorti bianco,

but this wine is already sold out!

 

diario

April 10th 2015. Beach honey

Our bees have produced a new honey, so delicious that and it has been nicknamed Ambrosia, the Gods’ nectar. We are proud to present the Miele di Spiaggia (beach honey), which comes from the coast. The place is the Lecciona  beach, part of the natural park of Migliarino San Rossore and Massaciuccoli. Here, the Thyrreanean waters wash the dunes and sand. It is the same  sea that mitigates the climate in the vineyards of Valgiano. And, during  the windy, “libeccio”days,  the salt is blown all the way up on to the olive trees’ leaves. On these dunes, between the pinewood and the shore, the bees live and savour the delights of the flowers of the Mediterranean scrub and the helicrysium meadows that stretch almost all the way to the shore bestowing on the honey a unique aroma. This is how the Miele di Spiaggia is born, sweet, but also with brackish notes, a of amber liquid until the autumn, when medium size grains begin to crystallise, whose aromas remain unaltered like those that can only be found on this beach during the hot summer days.

diario

Winter 2015

Searching for the etymological meaning of “sincere”, one finds the following explanation: The Romans used to order from Greek ceramists and vase makers big quantities of anforas for wines and olive oil. The inner coating of the vases had to be impermeabilized, to be precise, they had to be vitrified, to avoid seeping. The Greeks often took shortcuts, and , instead of vitrifying ( more costly) , they used liquid wax which they poured inside the container. After some time, the trick was discovered , because the liquid was coming out of the vase due to the  porosity. By then, the Romans, who had become shrewd, would, when placing orders of vases to the Greeks ask specifically for them to be SINA CERA ; without wax. In practice, without tricks. This is where the word sincere comes from, meaning: without cheating. Sincere might not be the most appropriate term to define a wine, one would rather use it for a person ( though it is a rare quality)  We like to “match ” Valgiano wines with the following qualitative terms: CONSISTENCY SOFTNESS VISCOSITY VIVACITY AND EXUBERANCE TEXTURE MINERALITY LENGTH AROMATIC PERSISTENCY COMPLEXITY These are the basis for the gel-sensorial tasting. Touching the wine by focusing on the way it feels in the mouth, on the tongue, and dwelling upon the salivation produced, one has access to the complexity of the place where it originates from.  As Henry Jayer often used to say, wine is not made to be evaluated , nor to make a note of. It is not made to be smelled, but to be drunk. It was created by our ancestors to enhance the pleasure of staying together. It accompanies the most important rituals of living with others, from Platoon’s banquets to the friends’ tosses stroked up with “cheers”! Hence, the wine from Valgiano is a “vin de lieu” , which belongs to a place, full of thousands of shades of ..rock!

diario

October 25th. Vintage 2014

In Ancient Greece, land was assigned only to those who enjoyed the trust of the community, because that was where the food for all of them came from. For thousands of years, the farmer was he who practised labours useful for the fertility of the soils, not impoverish it.  This system of land management lasted until very recently in the Lucchesia, in places like the Garfagnana, until the beginning of the 20th century. Land belonged to the community who entrusted it to different families every year, according to the numbers of mouths to be fed and the working arms; controlling the management and supervising making sure it would never impoverish. These were the rules until the arrival of the succession law up to the privatisation The result being: abandoned country sides, landslides and disorder. In Valgiano, we have taken charge of our responsibilities, the landscape resists, the woods are in balance with plenty of humus. Outside of the woodland, the farming soil is ever so fertile, farmed lovingly with biodynamic preparates, ( during these passed days the 500P).   Several products are cultivated here, some more delicate than others; they can be enjoyed and tasted in the wine glasses, in the dips and dressings “pinzimonio” or baked , grilled (chicken, guinea fowl, geese) . Monica is the cheese maker just above our top vineyard ,with her 10 wonderful Kashmere goats produces all kinds of goat cheese such as the ricotta, the “erborinati”, “caprini” fresh and seasoned, which match perfectly the wines, olive oil hand honey from their same terroir.   Still too early to judge the 2014 vintage..this suspense will fill us with unexpected surprises…to be continued..

diario

who knows? August, 6th

Talking about the weather may be a British habit but when the season is so dull, it becomes a day talk even in Mediterranean countries. When will it ever stop raining? Bob had already asked an alternative question, in 1963: ” how many years can a mountain exist before it’s washed to the sea”? And the answer will not be given by time-waster meteorologists, “the answer, my friend, is blowing in the wind”..After a hot, dry and absurd April, the cold was back in May, slowing vegetation down. Hot and cold weather were alternated, leaving plants and people disconcerted; is it spring or still the winter that never came? In July the much longed for summer did not arrive, one could have called it Julyember. Continuously very humid, the few days of break from the violent downpours were useful to work the new vineyard: driving the stakes onto the ground, hoeing the grass, which seemed to be devouring the new vines still undefended. Milk with sulphur needed to be spayed rapidly, 501 early in the morning, and in the beginning of August, the Valeriana.  Alex Podolinsky came back to Valgiano. Standing on the terrace, he delved into the horizon then departed, full of energy, for a three months tour around Europe giving lectures to careful farmers. When he returned, he was tired but satisfied. He said the best farmers are in Italy. For this reason we can say HURRAH for Italy!

diario

Late spring. Valgiano, May 16th

In March I went to China once again, the first few days in Hong Kong. I enjoyed the metropolis more this time; I was attracted by its orderly chaos. Valgiano was together with other producers, one from Barbaresco, the other from Irpinia. It was nice to work with them, piloted by our distributor’s staff. The next stopover was Chengdu, a “small” (14 million people) city in the southwest. This time there was just Valgiano for a very young audience. They had created a “VIP” event and I felt like I was on the set of a film on Liberace between the show, the luxurious cars, the festive table, the velvet jackets of the participants inlaid with gems and diamonds. Lots of photographs. Many asked me to take a picture with them “before I become red”, they said. People say that the Chinese do not have the enzyme to digest alcohol, and this causes their cheeks to become red. I had actually noticed this at some previous events. The food is very good in Chengdu, spicier, and its “hot pot” is very famous – a stew that reflects the Chinese habit of mixing different ingredients together in a large pot placed on a source of heat at the centre of the table where water and oil boil mixed with lots of hot spices.  Unfortunately, I did not have the opportunity to taste their traditional dish but the wines were paired very well with other delicacies that everyone appreciated. As the evening wore on, I was looking for red cheeks but did not see reddish faces anywhere, not even among the most enthusiastic wine admirers. At this point, the ambience resembled more like the set a play by Li Yu. Conclusion:  “Bevi sano, bevi Valgiano e non diventi rosso!” (Drink healthy, drink, Valgiano, and you won’t become red!)March. Springtime. The earth awakens. On the 21st, when solstice is over, the Tenuta di Valgiano 2011 wine, having passed its first winter in the bottle, hence sealed, introvert, magically opens up and expresses itself, strong and full of flavour.Beginning of April, Vinitaly: Valgiano is doubly present (a stand plus a ViViT spot). A concentrated show where one could get a taste of how the world is going. The ambience was composed, active, nervous, disorderly, combative, sometimes even cheerful and satisfying.It may seem like a frivolous destination, but from Verona, I went to Calcutta, to present several Valgiano vintages in the setting of the “Taj Mahal wine event”. The first place I visited in the City of Joy was the Kali Temple where I witnessed the daily sacrifice of the slitting a goat’s throat in the interior courtyard in honour of the goddess. I immediately felt drawn in by the many symbols of this divinity and, between good and bad, fear, repulsion, passion, suffering, a unique and unexplainable… positive force prevailed.

diario

February, 26th. New vineyard at Cesari and adult vines from Forci.

Towards the end of December , we planted a twenty acres vineyard, where there once used to be the ” Scasso dei Cesari “. It was an installation made by thirty families, back in the fifties who used the “scasso imperiale ” method. This consisted in digging a pit one metro deep, planting the vine shoot then re-cover with earth. From Cesari we did the massal selection with Marco Moroni’ s precious help to re plant Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Cigliegiolo and Vermentino.Then we rooted out the old vine ( in 2010), planted wheat and cover crop to rehabilitate and bring the soil back to balance. For a couple of years a phenomenal flour was produced out of the Verna and Gentil rosso wheats and we made delicious pasta and bread from it. We are going to miss it! During the summer we broke the soil because the old drainage system was no longer  efficient and needed restructuring.The other news is..Forci. Cancello, Orto, Santucci, Viani and Concetta are the names of the five vines that we have started managing since the beginning of the year after more than 15 months of abandon. The shoots resemble to liane, hard and entangled hence the pruning is a long and tiring duty.The ditches need to be fixed, as they can no longer hold water, there are patches where it seems more like a rice field. The Palistorti (crooked posts) in Valgiano are Palirotti (broken posts ) in Forci since we need to substitute more than 200 poles. Other than that, this hill is like a corner of paradise, an untouched landscape smooth and soothing made of woods and prairies, olive groves and few small vineyards. The position is ideal,  so is the soil, partly clayey but mostly calcareous. In the mornings we can start working early as there is no heavy dew.

diario

Valgiano, November 28th. Passage to China

From the Peak, Hong Kong can be properly seen, felt and admired.
A twisting road reached up to it, but I took the tram, which climbs up hill steeper and steeper penetrating the tropical vegetation.
A bit of air, finally! The warm wind blows from the huge metropolis underneath, swarming with activity amongst skyscrapers, ships, helicopters, chaotic yet tidy highways.
Many distributors, tasters and curious people came to taste the wines at the International Wines and Spirit fair, (Nov 7-9) on the fifth floor, where Valgiano was in the Italian  section, located next to the French. There, I met lots of people from China, Taiwan and India.Bye Bye HK, I am off to Shanghai, and my first day there was a Sunday, so I made my way to the market, where noiseless mopeds speed both ways and the pungent stink of fermented tofu attacks my nostrils; I am contented with a nice tea in a temple served with dumplings and sweet delights.In the afternoon, I am taken to the Muay Thai  to do Thai boxing, (which I really liked), and later, a fantastic massage done by a blind man restores me.
There I was, ready for an intense week of work organized, by Sarment ‘s staff that distribute the wines from Valgiano in HK and China.The timetable was filled up with appointments. For the moment, wines in Shanghai and Beijing are sold through Premium distribution channels.
So we shall see if the sommeliers from the Four Seasons, Marriott, Ritz Carlton, or Park Hyatt will choose to introduce Valgiano on their wine lists; there is certainly a lot of work that could be done there…
However, I can say that there was a lot of interest; I met many people who had a great deal of professionalism, they were curious, open minded, it was pleasant working and drinking with them, we spent some good times together.
It is still a bit too early to say whether the trip was a success, but my overall feeling was that there has been some good sowing on a soil that had been properly and skilfully prepared…! 

diario

October

How was harvest this year?It is still a bit early to say, we are usually carful before giving a final opinion.
An exhausting harvest, and, in some ways, similar to the 2010… (rain?) Nonetheless, we managed to bring lots of healthy bunches to the cellar. Not so much the case, for the late ripening varieties such as Sangiovese.
These are situated mainly in the lower vineyards, and suffered from the unfavourable weather conditions. Whereas the precocious grapes have come out nicely both in fruit and ripening. On the whole,  we were proud to notice that the vine is in good health and has managed to defend itself in an extreme year as this one. It all started on September 5th, the team being, predominantly feminine.
Once the grapes have been checked on the three selection trays, the girls step on the berries and name the tank they have processed.

Here they are listed, in a picking chronological order:
Open-air trunk -coned shaped oak vats:5th September:

L’anonimo Valgianiano
6th September: Sancho
10th September: Misstress
11th September: Riino
12th September: Domani tocca a Ilaria (tomorrow is Ilaria’s turn)
12th September: Xena
12th September: No Zatlan Maggies
12th September: Marianna cane
13th September: Suca suca party
13th September: L’allegro chirurgo
13th September: Trenta per tre (30x 3)
14th September: Corrado ha il Glado
14th September: Le 3 Porcelline
14th September: Fragole e champagne
14th September: Saturday night fever
17th September: Lilho e..
17th September: Stich
17th September: Fa’ buon brodo
20th September: Samarcanda
20th September: Ebollizione
20th September: The fucking tino
21th September: Fratelli Berna
24th September: Special pelato
24th September: Aspertini
24th September: Petrarca
24th September: Stoccolma
24th September: Stai colma
24th September: Lavinia
25th September: Django
25th September: Pablicito
25th September: Leopardi
25th September: Non guidare devi bere (don’t drive, you’ve gotta drink)
26th September: Sbarbina
26th September: Pestosterone
26th September: Cesare
27th September: Grande Lebowsky
27th September: La picatura de la ueva
27th September: FCN: frega cazzo niente
27th September: Pigverio
28th September: Vent’ unghie (21 nails)
28th September: Lerici
28th September: Elio
28th September: Oliver
28th September: Lacan
2nd October: Il marchese
3rd October: Ottobre rosso
3rd October: Schizzo
3rd October: Old lady
October 4th: End of harvest party!  The rain then started falling, and has not stopped since…

diario

July 21st

Summer has finally arrived. It seems only yesterday that we still had blankets on our beds, but the vines feel the heat, their shoots harden and turn yellow until they become wood, capable of going through winter filled up precious matter for next year.I wander around the vineyards that smell of sulphur looking for the first red berry, the scout that opens the track, the rest will follow massively.

diario

28 May

As we wait for the wines to mature in the cellar, every evening I say hallo to a robin who comes in front of the kitchen, and also a female blackbird,; but she comers early in the morning, to eat the bread crumbs…she’s a cunning one! by Laura Collobiano forPietre Colorate – Spring 2013

diario

May

A stop in the spring run for a storm! We waited for spring but when it arrived, 15 days late, gosh! it was fast!You could see the shoots and grass growing, you could almost listen to the growth! Shoot-thinning, mowing, spraying 501, rain, first spray with milk only, broken tractor, broken quad, second 501, rain, second spray milk only, shoot-thinning, mowing, broken tractor, broken quad, broken mower, rain, third spray milk and sulphure, shoot-thinning, mowing, third 501…. And so on….

diario

Febrary, 5th

How many millimetres of rain fell during the months of December and January? 240 mm + 217 mm (total rainfall = 457 mm = half a meter). How many landslides occurred? Quite a number of them here and there. A couple of miles south from our hill, an important road was closed because half of it collapsed in the water stream under it; on the hill in front of Valgiano, part of the driveway to a nice Villa perched on top of the Uliveto slid down the slope. The local, regional and other administrations who had been duly called beforehand and, after the disasters, emitted feeble communications that clumsily bounced from one office to the other saying…there is no money.. At least our soil is healthy, it is strong, well maintained, it is … alive! So let’s have a nice glass of Palistorti!

diario

Valgiano Japan China, November 12th – 20th 2012

The flight to Tokyo is long; fortunately at Narita airport everything is easy and within a couple of hours I am at the hotel; it is 2 pm but I must stay up until the evening to avoid becoming slave of the jet lag this side of the equator… I spend the afternoon wondering in the Hotel’s neighborhood, (Idabashi), where there are many little shops with lots of tiny sweet things, incenses and hand painted cards, paintbrushes, oriental clothing, hundreds of japanese restaurants, but there is no chance of having some tea… coffee of all sorts; european, american ecc, finally in the evening I bump into a tearoom, where I sit to drink a super green tea which tastes of seaweeds and Cypresses, so good!The day after I am very well after such a good rest, (I’ve slept 12 hours), I meet up with Giovanna Piasentin e Yoshiyuki Kawazu, with whom I have been working for the past ten years, and we go and have rice in the Chinese district. We then move onto visiting clients with Kondo, sale responsible of my importer, who has organized for me with the help of Giovanna and Yoshi 3 days filled of appointments, tastings.The same evening we’ll be at the Perbacco restaurant, fully booked, where the chef, Dong, has prepared a dish to match every single wine, which means 10 wines, amongst which “Giallo dei Muri” 2001 in splendid shape, I could have mistaken it for a Montrachet (hear!hear!) … there’s also a risotto with a local type of root similar to Topinambour, where one must add the oil from Valgiano… Once the dinner was over, everyone asks me to sign the bottles, so I started drawing stars, drops, clouds, mountains, hearts on the bottles, then they ask me to do the same on the window!Kondo collected orders… Giovanna translated my presentation; yes, I was “LOST IN TRANSLATION”.It was a wonderful evening I hope to go there again, soon!!The following day, November 13th there was the “Renaissance des Appellations” tasting, the french producers were in two rooms of the hotels whereas Italians, Australians, Georgians, Spanish and Austrians were gathered in other building badly indicated so few people came, at least they were good ones and I was well represented since Giovanna, Yoshi and Kondo were at my table. I also had a chat with a journalist who is writing a book on “natural wines”, and I immediately told her that she must change title, fortunately she seemed quite open-minded.The day after, Giovanna, Yoshi and myself left for Osaka on a beautiful super fast train that travelled 500 km in 2 hours. Half way through the journey, I saw mount Fuji, magnificent and immense, it really looks like a volcano and the top was sprayed white with snow, there’s definitely something magnetic about it… Kondo came to pick us up, and off we went visiting clients until the evening and the last happening was at the Cantinetta Barbera, situated in the “naughty” area of Osaka, a tiny place where the chef cooks delicious to match the wines chosen by the mythical sommelier Mori. The place is packed and the atmosphere as often happens in Japan, is slightly tight, formal, serious, then gradually warms up so that all the commencing bows mute into hugs and friendly exchanges.

diario

October 2nd 2012

The first five RED leaves have appeared today on a vine shoot in the Scasso di Cima vineyard: It is autumn.
The air has cooled down, rainfalls are more frequent.
At last, we sleep better because all grapes have been picked. The last boxes were taken to the selection trays on September 25th. It all started August 21st.
The harvest began in a torrid heat to end up in medium fresh climate. The crop this year was not of excessive quantity; the early varieties have suffered more from the drought , hence giving a lower yield, but there was no withering , and, the other grapes, like Sangiovese, have given good yield …now that it has all become wine, we can sigh with relief.

diario

September 29th 2012 Pia Pera

I’ve tried to produce oil on my own, with my olive trees, but they’re not many – only about fifty – and when I go to the mill, it’s useless: I only get an exchange, olives for oil, oil squeezed from anything, and the only hope is that the other producers in the area do not inundate their fields with chemical products. But there’s no certainty of this. So I may as well buy it; it’s quicker and cheaper.I’m holding on to my olive grove though, because it’s there and because it’s beautiful. But the olives are picked by some friends of mine who have them squeezed together with their own. They come to my place and pick them. For them, it’s worth the effort.And the oil? Fully aware of the failure of my little self-sufficiency project, I get the oil from Laura in Valgiano. This way, I’m absolutely sure that it’s good, not poisoned but actually biodynamic. Because there’s lots of land there in Valgiano, and lots of people who work it – people who have made living in harmony with the countryside and with one another their life philosophy.Valgiano is a world apart that contains everything: the forest, the vegetable garden, the vineyard, chickens, lemons, pigs, biodynamic preparations using horn manure, the bees and the friends, children and dogs, the nanny and the cat, the farmers, the oenologist, the gardener and the garden, the greenhouse, the barbican walls, the villa, the wine cellar, the library and the billiard room, and an infinite landscape as far as the eye can see. I’ve listed these features in random order; it’s not important where we start from. Because every one of them is equally foundational. And here’s the lesson to be learned: there are some things that we cannot do on our own. I had deceived myself that I was living ecologically on my little farm. Instead, I’m sure that, if I measure it, my ecological footprint would be alarmingly deep and incisive. More than if I lived in a single-room apartment in front of the Coop supermarket!Vineyards, too, get old. The Cesari vineyard has been explanted now, and – while the earth takes a breather – they are also growing wheat there, so they’ll be sure it comes from selected seeds and that it is freshly ground, not like some flours that come from who knows where, are left to collect mould in a delivery container and in the end have so few live substances but such a great many toxic ones.Size counts. Some things cannot be done on one’s own; they’ll have no chance of succeeding. There’s just one way not to tire out more than is absolutely necessary and not to waste resources and energy: make sure that everything is part of something bigger, of a network of relationships, which is the network of life, after all. This has for centuries been the wisdom of the farmstead, of the country house. Now it is the foundational idea of permaculture: a portion of land big enough to contain a clean microcosm.Pia Pera 29th September 2012

diario

June 2012

Ci abitueremo mai a questa alternanza di piogge torrenzialiseguite da caldo siccitoso?Per fortuna le viti sembrano fatte apposta, per più di 40 giorni hanno continuato a crescere con l’umidità accumulata dall’humus.Adesso la parte fogliare è splendida, verde brillantesenza un accenno di sofferenza.

diario

May 2012

Quando abbiamo deciso di aprirci un po’ di più alle visite non immaginavamo questo!Un pellegrinaggio, ristoratori, enoteche, appassionati.Da una parte è gratificante ma il rischio è che ci si perda in chiacchere e si lavori meno.

diario

April 2012

Che effetto ritrovarsi dopo un inverno alpinofreddo e secco in una primavera tropicale.Le piante crescono, i funghi imperversanoe noi corriamo.